the goldilocks of polka dots

So here is Paul Smith Fall 2011 collection, representing two of the biggest trends of the season, polka dots and androgyny, "girls will be boys". I can't say I've ever been a worshiper of spots, dots or anything round and repetitive, but that's partly as it reminds of the sixties and I'm not so keen on that era either, I find it too sickly and unsophisticated. But this season I've found a few collections that have put them in just the right places (the dots I mean) and paired with boy tailoring as it is here, it adds femininity without being over the top. Others I have found to have got the balance right for this winter include Marc Jacobs and Jil Sander.

alexei izmaylov

Designer and Photographer: Alexei Izmaylov

Hair: Romy Burgess and Jennifer Whitehead

Make-Up: Hailey Williamson

Models: Carola and me (Strike Model Management)

Assistant: Renee Bedell

I've just come across the lookbook we shot in June for Alexei's Pre Collection 2012 (which I love, might I add) click here to have a look at the video and explore the site!

gucci and pucci and dior, oh my!

So this is Pre Fall 2009 Dior, with yes, you guessed it, references to film noir. I've been trying to think of something more conceptual, but ultimately my designs so far are headed towards classic, elegant, sexy rather than fashion forward. However this isn't such a negative as honestly I could do with focusing on my pattern cutting skills (or lack of them) more than anything else!

My next step is to check out fabrics - thinking denser fabrics, still feminine but stronger and not too floaty. Floaty says airy fairy to me! The obvious choice would be black. But I was thinking possibly grey - playing with the idea of using the shade of grey that represents blood red in a black and white film/photograph.

the sartorialist

I love this outfit (...and her perfect summer skin, damn her!). This was uploaded last week on The Sartorialist, it was taken in New York - apparently the sun has been shining somewhere in the world.

mountain chic

I love the pops of saturated colour this season amongst the more natural tones. Fur is definitely making a come back this season (yay!). Liking the diversity of this Emilio Pucci Fall 2011 collection, there is a huge range of tones, fabrics, textures and styles that somehow remain cohesive and still scream out Pucci to whoever will listen! Peter Dundas took inspiration from Austria and more specifically the mountains; "...mountains are part of the house DNA but I took it to the mountains my style." He particularly homed in on the portrait neckline making it a central feature to the whole collection.

I think that applying thought to the entire aesthetic surrounding a collection is also important, for example the shoes, the styling, the venue - and here I think the balance is just right. The shoes are each different in style and colour yet still compliment each outfit whilst blending with one another. I like how the hair styling says "winter windswept" and how the venue says "winter palace", really captures Dundas' personal response to the mountain theme.

sugarhill boutique

Had a photo shoot for Sugarhill Boutique recently at Garage Studios in Brighton, for the Autumn/Winter '11 stuff, was a lot of fun. The clothes have just gone up and these are a few of my favourites! The Kiss Kiss Jumpsuit (£60), the Kitty Kaftan (£45), and the Lola Blouse (£36) with Rosebud Shorts (£36).

get rhythm

Probably my favourite couple of all time! If you're lucky enough to catch me singing around and about the house, there is a strong chance it'll be one of their tunes. What a love story! (Walk The Line is also one of my favourite films). Johnny Cash and June Carter Cash 1968 - 2003! ♥

morning beauty

 

Photographer: Mario Testino

Model: Sasha Pivovarova

winter jewels

On the hunt for examples of the jewel tones that made such a punch in the Fall 2011 lines, I was saved a lot of work when I stumbled upon them all in one collection, Gucci. Just to name a few we have emerald, citrine, garnet alongside rubies and sapphires. 

Whilst jewel tones are dotted throughout the entire collection, day and night time looks alike, the three below are head to toe colour in bold shades of emerald, citrine and garnet. These three dresses stood alone are far too much (in my opinion, anyway) but are diluted somewhat amongst charcoals, silvers and of course, blacks.

I've lately become a Gucci fan. I like the bold colour and clean lines, but also how they are complimented by neutral looks in creams for the spring and greys for the winter. I should really be researching for my project but how can one avoid such distractions as these...?!

"the czar of noir"

...the title novelist James Elroy once gave San Franciscan writer Eddie Muller. He writes books about films, more specifically film noir (hence the name). I was thinking that reading up on some of his works might be an interesting starting place for my project. 

"If a private eye is hired by an old geezer to prove his wife's cheating on him and the shamus discovers long-buried family secrets and solves a couple of murders before returning to his lonely office - that's detective fiction. If the same private eye gets seduced by the geezer's wife, kills the old coot for her, gets double-crossed by his lover and ends up shot to death by his old partner from the police force - I can say with complete assurance: you are wallowing in NOIR."

Came across this quote of his whilst hunting for secondary research in the form of a black and white film - one that I can bare to watch! My mother informs me that I have always hated them and that I frequently insisted that she didn't make me watch "one of those grey films" as a child. I figure if I can read a film noir it saves me the distress and the torture of an hour and a half of colourless adventures. God bless you Eddie Muller. 

But on a more serious note, I think that this way I would be looking more closely at the qualities of the leading lady and designing for that customer, rather than creating a period costume directly referenced from something I've seen in a film. But we'll see!